The Mighty Tension Swatch

For me, the swatch is a wonderful chance to preview my vision, into a material fact. Years ago, when the trainers from Japan came to us, they brought generous, inspiring, splendid swatches, the size of a sweater back or front. The samples were made from beautiful silks, cottons, merinos and kid mohair. What a treat, how delightful, let's get knitting! Sampling by hand reminds me too, of pre-pinterest mood board times, with added dimensions of experiencing the patterns and getting acquainted with texture on a deeper level. The knowledge gained by experience is especially helpful to me when the time comes to marry shaping to stitch pattern, as well as clarifying fit expectations.

In this DK example there are twice as many stitches as the amount the ball band suggests for 4 inches, and enough rows to form a square, framing the swatch with garter stitch.

Yarn overs mark the needle size just after the first garter ridge and 2 rows before casting off. In this example I used a 3.75, so I made 3 holes knit 3 stitches and 3 more holes on the right hand side.

I block the swatch, wash it and dry it, as if it were the sweater. Washing evens out the knitting, plus checking for shrinkage and colourfastness. Sometimes it is hard to distinguish individual stitches, so I place a pin every inch of stitches to 4 inches.

In stocking stitch, the purl side of stocking stitch looks more horizontal to me, so I use it to count the rows. Once I know my gauge, I usually adjust the pattern, because I do enjoy particular needle sizes and often use a similar, but different yarn than that suggested by the pattern.

It is easier to count the stitches and rows if there is a pattern for example in this small check stitch I am using for the modular jacket.  Another strategy could be to add a stripe in a contrasting colour prior to the beginning and end of lace stitch pattern repeat.

This small check is from  The Penguin Knitting Book by James Norbury's. I am using the for some of the panels of the modular jacket.

The Cast On with Options

This week at the Knit Guild we looked at casting on with waste yarn. The Americans call it the Provisional Cast On, wow, in the 80's it used to be called "Scrap On!" (and Scrap Off).
There are many excellent reasons for the knitter to make the beginning of the work open stitches.
Those reasons could include, postponing the design of the trim, accommodating the use of different dye lots, or allowing for adjusting the fit and length after completing of the main pieces.

I like to use a completely contrasting smooth yarn like this treasure from the 80's. The yarn is super chunky so I doubled the waste yarn. I finished the scarf below with waste yarn as well and grafted the edges together for a pliable smooth join..

The waste yarn  method for grafting allows for easier matching and adjusting the  with regards to tension. I have seen Lucy Neatby also use this method on her socks, calling it a toe chimney.

For the modular cardigan it is a design decision. I might do a rib or a moss stitch on the bottom in different yarn. I am also using vintage yarn from my stash in different dye lots.

The cardigan is for one of the members children and she kindly brought his fleece jacket in for measurement. He is currently a size 4, so we are planning a size 5 to 6, for that room to grow!

The first two strips look like the correct width to me, allowing for the seam so next I will make the centre back strip. Sharion, our president provided lots of  stitch inspiration at the October meeting.

When the knitted pieces were laid on the jacket I could see the side panels only need to be 2 inches instead of 3. It is interesting that the Gap version uses a completely different fabric for the underarm panels.

Another alternative temporary cast on uses a crochet chain. Just pick up the stitches through the centre back loop of the chain. Again use a nice smooth contrast for the crochet.

Using a crochet hook to pick up the stitches works well. Once the stem of the hook is full of stitches  thread them off the end of the handle onto the knitting needle and make the piece.

I began all of the strips with a nice smooth light grey superwash dk and 4mm hook for the chain as I am knitting with a 3.75 needle to get the correct gauge.

It is so very satisfying the undo the chain when you have returned to the edge and picked up the stitches. Rather like when you pull that string on a bag of potatoes or cat food correctly.

Using waste yarn for casting on is a very Japanese method. You will notice the direction of knitting arrows in the pattern diagrams most of the time. I believe these most excellent technical books are still available