Knit Club, February 2019, the most excellent stretchy bind off

I have made several samples for the knit club meeting in February. They are in DK yarn, 42 stitches wide and 42 rows long, with a simple stripe pattern. I have 4 goals for using them; tidy up loose ends, the most stretchy bind off, mattress stitch and back stitch seaming.

The main tools for this is a number13 tapestry needle, fairly large and with a blunt point. The plastic version works perfectly for this technique.

In my system of sweater making, the first step once the work is off the needles is to measure the piece and confirm it is the measurement I expected. Then I tidy up loose ends. Darning them into the inside of the fabric, horizontally, sometimes diagonally and sometimes vertically through the back of the stitches.

Then I block, and finally sew up and add the bands. This is often the place for a stretchy bind off, aka backstitching through the loops.

Another appropriate place for the stretchy bind is a sideways knit scarf or garment. Gravity affects sideways knits and often, what seems loose enough in a cast off, over time restricts the drape of the piece. In our sample, we are doing it after the tidy. I think because I enjoy sewing as well as needlework, my habit is to work with garment pieces that are clean finished and pressed. I have noticed this also in Japanese garment making, which I have long admired. This is one of my newer reference manuals, which I purchased from The Needle Arts Bookshop in Toronto. The attention to detail fascinates me, my zen of knitting.

After I have knit the final row for example,  I knit a few rows in a sturdy contrast coloured waste yarn which matches the weight of the main yarn. I recently wrote about this method when I finished a cowl in Trinity Stitch.

One can certainly do this bind off from a knitting needle, however I have found a few rows of contrast waste knitting is a great benefit to a smooth and even tension and adds to the enjoyment of the process. Below is another photo from a vintage book in my stash. Notice the stitch being worked from right to left again.

I cut the bind off yarn 5 times the width of the piece. I have noticed a recommendation for 3 to 4 times the width, but 5 times feels much safer to me. For my sample I am using a yellow contrast yarn, but were this a garment it would be the same yarn continued from the final row of the garment.

Working from left to right, I poke the threaded needle through the fabric just below the starting point, this is to control the yarn end from jumping into the way, especially during the static filled days of winter.

Start by poking through down the second stitch and then up through the first stitch, then up the 3rd stitch and down through the second stitch and so on. You can gently stretch the knitting to see the actual stitches better. I always look for the rounded shape of the stitch purl side.

I like to have the yarn below the stitch, and it forms a nice lapped effect on the purl side. You could also have it above, it just matters that you are consistent.

Make the stitches a nice relaxed even tension. The main fabric should stay the same width, i.e not pucker or stretch.

The reverse (right) side will look like little purl bumps.

 Undo the waste yarn and admire this most stretchy and beautiful bind off.

Practice makes progress!

Seams Incredible: The Back Stitch

We discussed seaming Bruce's jacket last night at the knit guild. Sewing up is actually one of the primary reasons we are making the jacket this season. The modular format (or knitted strips) create lots of opportunity for seaming.

Like a reverse New Year countdown, I made top ten list, are we ready?

1. Back stitch
2. Mattress stitch
3. Crochet slip stitch
4. Three needle bind off
5. Whip stitch
6. Grafting
7. Picking up and knitting
8. I cord
9. Sewing Machine
10. Knitting in the round (no sew)

For this post and Bruce's jacket I am using the back stitch for the lengthwise body pieces and a size 18 tapestry needle. This James Norbury's preferred method

It makes a very strong seam, is the devil to unpick and I think it works well when the knitter has the practice of knitting and slipping edge stitches to create a clear selvage.

I like a smaller needle for back stitch because it pierces the edge better and the blunt point avoids splitting the yarn and resulting snagging. The larger needle is a size 13, my preference for mattress stitch.

I am ok with a visible seam on the reverse side, though I understand many knitters prefer a smoother look. I will investigate this possibility later in the new year. I imagine it similar to flatlocking, the kind of seam common on sportswear.

I like the Clover stitch holders when I use the 3 needle bind off as they act like a knitting needle. You could alternatively use double pointed needles.

When the shoulders are complete, the stitch patterns flows smoothly over the shoulder. Notice the extra yarn I leave connected after I have knitted the parts. I leave a 4 times the width of the knitting length on each piece, so I have more options for which yarn I will eventually use to cast off. For me, this is one of the few places I leave a length of yarn from the knitted piece for sewing up. Mostly I prefer to sew up seams with fresh yarn.

My final tip for back stitch is to consider using a thinner yarn for sewing. For example a DK yarn with a chunky. Certainly with a soft unspun yarn like Lopi a yarn with twist and ply is necessary.

The Mighty Tension Swatch

For me, the swatch is a wonderful chance to preview my vision, into a material fact. Years ago, when the trainers from Japan came to us, they brought generous, inspiring, splendid swatches, the size of a sweater back or front. The samples were made from beautiful silks, cottons, merinos and kid mohair. What a treat, how delightful, let's get knitting! Sampling by hand reminds me too, of pre-pinterest mood board times, with added dimensions of experiencing the patterns and getting acquainted with texture on a deeper level. The knowledge gained by experience is especially helpful to me when the time comes to marry shaping to stitch pattern, as well as clarifying fit expectations.

In this DK example there are twice as many stitches as the amount the ball band suggests for 4 inches, and enough rows to form a square, framing the swatch with garter stitch.

Yarn overs mark the needle size just after the first garter ridge and 2 rows before casting off. In this example I used a 3.75, so I made 3 holes knit 3 stitches and 3 more holes on the right hand side.

I block the swatch, wash it and dry it, as if it were the sweater. Washing evens out the knitting, plus checking for shrinkage and colourfastness. Sometimes it is hard to distinguish individual stitches, so I place a pin every inch of stitches to 4 inches.

In stocking stitch, the purl side of stocking stitch looks more horizontal to me, so I use it to count the rows. Once I know my gauge, I usually adjust the pattern, because I do enjoy particular needle sizes and often use a similar, but different yarn than that suggested by the pattern.

It is easier to count the stitches and rows if there is a pattern for example in this small check stitch I am using for the modular jacket.  Another strategy could be to add a stripe in a contrasting colour prior to the beginning and end of lace stitch pattern repeat.

This small check is from  The Penguin Knitting Book by James Norbury's. I am using the for some of the panels of the modular jacket.

The Cast On with Options

This week at the Knit Guild we looked at casting on with waste yarn. The Americans call it the Provisional Cast On, wow, in the 80's it used to be called "Scrap On!" (and Scrap Off).
There are many excellent reasons for the knitter to make the beginning of the work open stitches.
Those reasons could include, postponing the design of the trim, accommodating the use of different dye lots, or allowing for adjusting the fit and length after completing of the main pieces.

I like to use a completely contrasting smooth yarn like this treasure from the 80's. The yarn is super chunky so I doubled the waste yarn. I finished the scarf below with waste yarn as well and grafted the edges together for a pliable smooth join..

The waste yarn  method for grafting allows for easier matching and adjusting the  with regards to tension. I have seen Lucy Neatby also use this method on her socks, calling it a toe chimney.

For the modular cardigan it is a design decision. I might do a rib or a moss stitch on the bottom in different yarn. I am also using vintage yarn from my stash in different dye lots.

The cardigan is for one of the members children and she kindly brought his fleece jacket in for measurement. He is currently a size 4, so we are planning a size 5 to 6, for that room to grow!

The first two strips look like the correct width to me, allowing for the seam so next I will make the centre back strip. Sharion, our president provided lots of  stitch inspiration at the October meeting.

When the knitted pieces were laid on the jacket I could see the side panels only need to be 2 inches instead of 3. It is interesting that the Gap version uses a completely different fabric for the underarm panels.

Another alternative temporary cast on uses a crochet chain. Just pick up the stitches through the centre back loop of the chain. Again use a nice smooth contrast for the crochet.

Using a crochet hook to pick up the stitches works well. Once the stem of the hook is full of stitches  thread them off the end of the handle onto the knitting needle and make the piece.

I began all of the strips with a nice smooth light grey superwash dk and 4mm hook for the chain as I am knitting with a 3.75 needle to get the correct gauge.

It is so very satisfying the undo the chain when you have returned to the edge and picked up the stitches. Rather like when you pull that string on a bag of potatoes or cat food correctly.

Using waste yarn for casting on is a very Japanese method. You will notice the direction of knitting arrows in the pattern diagrams most of the time. I believe these most excellent technical books are still available

Yikes! Stripes

There are a lot of lovely striped sweaters around these days, so I decided to knit one myself. I used Sisu for the colour, a sturdy Norwegian sock weight yarn, a lightweight acrylic DK and a 3.75 needle.

It is size 7/8 for my grandson Max. The stripes stop just before the raglan shaping. This is not only attractive, but much easier to knit, as you are working "one technique" as it were, at a time. After completion, I realized the purl side looks just as nice as the knit side, however, the deed was done.

Sewing up the seams with the mattress stitch worked very well. The 2 by 2 rib is a multiple of 4 plus 2 so the ribbing seam matches properly. I used a 3 mm needle for the rib.

Matching stripes under the sleeves went very well. I used a blunt plastic tapestry (wool) needle. Very satisfactory.

The raglan shaping is worked 3 stitches in from the edge, to add the Marks and Spencer fully fashioned look.

The neckline is short rowed in order to keep the opening as stretchy as possible. Nobody likes a lot of friction on their ears when you pull over a pullover.

Nice to work with such a jolly green colour these snowy days and bonus, one ball of Sisu did the entire sweater with a bit left over, wow! All machine washable.

portable projects

For travel, grouping stuff in bags works great for keeping organized. Check out this tip from the Get It Done Guy. I  do own a couple of luxury Sea to Summit garment bags in different colours, they are rather like portable drawers. I also use the ubiquitous Ziploc bag.

For that bit of extra class I'm keen on the organza and polyester silk bags from Dollarama, they weigh almost nothing. Particular colours and textures for particular stuff and they do double duty as an evening purse/camera bag too.

This winter I made Stand and Stow bags by Terry Atkinson and so enjoyed the process, especially using the log fabric from Ikea. I told my friend Yimi I am now a woodworker!

After making these bags, I checked out Terry's website and found a cute free sock sack pattern. I used some stash spring fabric and a matching zipper  for my first effort.

I decided to put the current sock project I am making, for my lovely daughter Veronica in this bag.

Next I acquired a super cute fabric group from Ruby Pearl Quilts in Oshawa called Lovey Dovey, so I plan to make more sock sacks, one especially for my mom. Her current project,  a gorgeous Kate Davies hat in authentic shetland wool should fit nicely.