Blocking Practices, Part 1

People often ask about the particulars of my blocking practice. Over the years, I have used many different tools and in in the end, return to simple tools and habits. I use a (scratch and dent) ceiling tile from the local lumber store. It is 2 feet by 4 feet.

And I have covered it first, with an vintage wool blanket then a heavy piece of cotton marked in one inch squares. I use safety pins for fastening to make removal for the occasional wash easier.

T pins are the biggest investment for this system. They are sturdy and I dedicate them to only this process. My sewing pins are like my dressmaker scissors, absolutely only for sewing. The ceiling tile is made of pressed wood fibres and like any paper dulls sharp edges, even after a single use, (ask me how I know this).

The other tool is some nondescript smooth yarn to baste the garment pieces together. I am using off white Cascade acrylic DK yarn. It is strong and won't transfer any colour during the steaming.

I baste the pieces, right sides together, all around, on the very edge using a (blunt) tapestry needle. This practices makes sure the parts will match in size after the steaming. Also the way knitting likes to curl is controlled by basting them right sides together. After the first pin out and steam you can re-steam the very edges by removing the pins and before you remove the basting yarn. Well behaved, tidy flat edges make sewing up a greater pleasure.

The marked squares on the outer cloth to facilitate measuring and keeping the grain of the knitting correct. I do a dimensional double check with a measuring tape. Over time and washings the cotton cloth has shrunk the marked squares to slightly smaller than a true inch.

I place marker pins to the correct measurement and then fit the knitted piece into shape. Pinning the corners, then the middle of the seam, then about 3 inches apart. This cardigan is a pretty sturdy knit, if I were blocking something more supple, like a lace shawl I would pin about every inch.

I also recommend leaning the pins at an outward angle so the iron can get to the very edges

After steaming, you can lean the board up against a wall until it is dry thus freeing up the precious workspace for more activity.

We also carry puzzle blocking mats, great for crescent shaped shawls for example. In the next post I will talk more about how I make use of the iron. Thanks for joining me!

Cable, Cable and Cable

For the past 2 years, off and on, I have been knitting the Cabled Jacket design by Debbie Bliss. The shawl style of the collar is a variation of a favourite of mine.

The entire front edges of the jacket are a cable set, with a reverse stocking stitch facing added in as you work towards the shoulders

I measured the collar as I worked to fit correctly into the back neck space.

Just that little bit shorter than the neck edge itself.

Cast off and fixed in place with slip stitch.

I haven't made a heavily cabled sweater in years and now how engrossing the rhythmic twists and turns can become whilst knitting. I worked on the cardigan with the help of Netflix in the evenings and made myself a map to follow using coloured pens and my travel Clover row counter. This strategy really helped me nail down the shaping/pattern combination.

I  keep hearing "Cable, cable and cable" as an earworm from the film version of  "South Pacific".

After I completed the final right sided row of the shoulder, I decreased/pinched about a third of the purl stitches together on the wrong side to slightly gather the seam. This is because cables are a form of rib and stretch after completion. Not a good look for a tailored shoulder.

My preferred method of seaming shoulders (and the mid collar) is to pair the live stitches right sides facing and cast them off together, matching the pattern of course.

Within the design, Debbie put the cable pattern down the center of the sleeve, meaning the reverse stocking stitch has the increases. I have also been doing a relay race with the sleeves, 48 rows on one, then 48 rows on the other, etc. etc. In between, I park the live stitches on the nice long double pointed needles Byron made me using a dowel similar in diameter to my needles, so I can easily knit right back onto the main circulars

I worked lifted increases 2 stitches in from the edge, to allow for seaming. It is something I learned from my long and happy relationship with Japanese knitting practices. I plan to slip stitch crochet the sleeve head in place and mattress stitch the side and underarm seams.