Herself the Elf

I meant to share this with you all before the 25th, alas, somehow time flew by and so here is my Christmas elf story a little late.

Every December, around the second week, I take the time to make a few things for people I love.

I used my Christmas fabrics to create a furoshiki wrap for Byron's ham that we brought to the gathering, as well as some sewing bags using the pattern Jane Bulls wonderful children's sewing book. I picked up at the local library.  I had the opportunity to use my pinking shears for the first time... so interesting.

I knit a pair of hand warmers for my friend Rob, using my Hand warmer Family which you can find as a free download on Ravelry.

When I created the design, I used Schachenmayer Bravo, a multicoloured man made full DK.

This time I used the new so so soft Sky DK from Garnstudio. It is a little bit finer so I used a 3.75 needle and  knit 4 more rows each on the cuff and hand portions.

My mum would have called it a Beatrix Potter colour, and I agree wholeheartedly.

I was pleasantly surprised at how calming it was to work with. I haven't knit with the brown family very often in my life. Fascinating the way it looked grey next to black.

and minky next to brown

I also used this bonny red shade to make a second pair.

It was fun to use straight knitting needles for a change. I like the way these cuffs keep your pulses warm as well as dress up those handy one size fits all gloves. Oh so cosy.

Stitches I love

We have a stock of super chunky Lumio so Imade a Trinity (Popcorn )Stitch cowl.

I previously knit a narrow colourful one in the summer with an odd ball of monster yarn.

In my library I have vintage books with Trinity (popcorn) stitch patterns.

The Lumio ball band directs the knitter to use 10mm pins, but I prefer my trusty 8mm. I find, generally speaking, a smaller tension, though taking more time to knit, stands up better to wash and wear. I cast on using waste yarn, in roughly the same thickness by using a nice bright smooth turquoise cotton doubled to match the Lumio. There are alternate provisional cast on's, but for grafting I prefer a few rows of waste knitting at either end.

Once the desired length of 30 inches was achieved I stopped at pattern row 3. This was so the graft row fits smoothly in with the pattern, and is almost undetectable.

The charm of Lumio is the reflective thread, a similar material to those silvery patches on a safety vest. A great safety feature for the winter pedestrian, especially in the city.
There is a lovely program on TV Ontario called Coast. The first episodes were about the United Kingdom. The presenters wore knits and in a particular episode a chartreuse trinity stitch cowl, probably in Rowan yarn. It looked so appealing and straightforward to figure out. I have not worked Trinity stitch in many years and found the experience just delightful.

Why I Love This Stitch
What a good pattern for the practice of understanding the knitting in your hand! It is a 4 row pattern, alternating every 2 rows. The purl side is the public side, a bit jarring at first, but really helpful in supporting focus. The texture of the stitch on both sides is appealing.

Thick soft yarn and bobble stitch are great mates. After I test knit the complete pattern you will find it as a free download on our Ravelry pattern page.

The Mighty Tension Swatch

For me, the swatch is a wonderful chance to preview my vision, into a material fact. Years ago, when the trainers from Japan came to us, they brought generous, inspiring, splendid swatches, the size of a sweater back or front. The samples were made from beautiful silks, cottons, merinos and kid mohair. What a treat, how delightful, let's get knitting! Sampling by hand reminds me too, of pre-pinterest mood board times, with added dimensions of experiencing the patterns and getting acquainted with texture on a deeper level. The knowledge gained by experience is especially helpful to me when the time comes to marry shaping to stitch pattern, as well as clarifying fit expectations.

In this DK example there are twice as many stitches as the amount the ball band suggests for 4 inches, and enough rows to form a square, framing the swatch with garter stitch.

Yarn overs mark the needle size just after the first garter ridge and 2 rows before casting off. In this example I used a 3.75, so I made 3 holes knit 3 stitches and 3 more holes on the right hand side.

I block the swatch, wash it and dry it, as if it were the sweater. Washing evens out the knitting, plus checking for shrinkage and colourfastness. Sometimes it is hard to distinguish individual stitches, so I place a pin every inch of stitches to 4 inches.

In stocking stitch, the purl side of stocking stitch looks more horizontal to me, so I use it to count the rows. Once I know my gauge, I usually adjust the pattern, because I do enjoy particular needle sizes and often use a similar, but different yarn than that suggested by the pattern.

It is easier to count the stitches and rows if there is a pattern for example in this small check stitch I am using for the modular jacket.  Another strategy could be to add a stripe in a contrasting colour prior to the beginning and end of lace stitch pattern repeat.

This small check is from  The Penguin Knitting Book by James Norbury's. I am using the for some of the panels of the modular jacket.

The Cast On with Options

This week at the Knit Guild we looked at casting on with waste yarn. The Americans call it the Provisional Cast On, wow, in the 80's it used to be called "Scrap On!" (and Scrap Off).
There are many excellent reasons for the knitter to make the beginning of the work open stitches.
Those reasons could include, postponing the design of the trim, accommodating the use of different dye lots, or allowing for adjusting the fit and length after completing of the main pieces.

I like to use a completely contrasting smooth yarn like this treasure from the 80's. The yarn is super chunky so I doubled the waste yarn. I finished the scarf below with waste yarn as well and grafted the edges together for a pliable smooth join..

The waste yarn  method for grafting allows for easier matching and adjusting the  with regards to tension. I have seen Lucy Neatby also use this method on her socks, calling it a toe chimney.

For the modular cardigan it is a design decision. I might do a rib or a moss stitch on the bottom in different yarn. I am also using vintage yarn from my stash in different dye lots.

The cardigan is for one of the members children and she kindly brought his fleece jacket in for measurement. He is currently a size 4, so we are planning a size 5 to 6, for that room to grow!

The first two strips look like the correct width to me, allowing for the seam so next I will make the centre back strip. Sharion, our president provided lots of  stitch inspiration at the October meeting.

When the knitted pieces were laid on the jacket I could see the side panels only need to be 2 inches instead of 3. It is interesting that the Gap version uses a completely different fabric for the underarm panels.

Another alternative temporary cast on uses a crochet chain. Just pick up the stitches through the centre back loop of the chain. Again use a nice smooth contrast for the crochet.

Using a crochet hook to pick up the stitches works well. Once the stem of the hook is full of stitches  thread them off the end of the handle onto the knitting needle and make the piece.

I began all of the strips with a nice smooth light grey superwash dk and 4mm hook for the chain as I am knitting with a 3.75 needle to get the correct gauge.

It is so very satisfying the undo the chain when you have returned to the edge and picked up the stitches. Rather like when you pull that string on a bag of potatoes or cat food correctly.

Using waste yarn for casting on is a very Japanese method. You will notice the direction of knitting arrows in the pattern diagrams most of the time. I believe these most excellent technical books are still available

Simple Pattern Drafting Part 1

At Knit Club next Wednesday we are going to draft a simple pattern for a child's jacket, using graph paper. It is an old fashioned way I know, but I really enjoy paper and pencil work. Four squares to the inch graph paper makes it so easy to draw.

 Assign one square to equal one inch of garment. For a child, age 4 to 5 the basic measurements for a drop shoulder jacket are as follows:
Actual Garment Chest measurement: 28 inches
Length from shoulder: 17 inches
Length of Sleeve: 10 inches
This is a generous amount I know, and allows for the growth spurt as well as any delay that could happen in the making, just in case.

First I find and mark the centre of the paper underneath the punched hole. So it is easier to see in a photograph, I use a Sharpie marker, rather than my trusty 2B pencil (and plastic eraser).

The the neck opening of 4 inches get's  2 dot's on either side of the centre.

Then the shoulder dots, 7 squares from the neckline edge. The total width is 18 inches, half the 36 inch circumference

The length dots are next, first the one in the middle

Then the dots at the corners of the body.

Join the dots, to make a rectangle

Sleeve dots include the length, the armhole and half the cuff.

Join the dots and now I think it looks like a jacket

Here are the panel lines in place. These lines can also mean different stitch patterns.

The measurements of each part are written, and we are ready to begin calculating the stitch and row counts. Refinements like the neck shaping are figured out later, no worries.

Four squares to the inch graph paper fits a children's size. When I need larger sizes, I can tape paper together, or...

use 10 square to the inch paper, with lots of squares to spare.

Next is swatching time, so we learn how many stitches and rows equal an inch.
I'm using Country Style DK and a 3.75mm needle, and aim of achieve 5.5 stitches and 7 rows to the inch, like the ball band says.