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Friday, March 29, 2019

Sleeves for Bruce's jacket and completion is near

So now it is time to set in the sleeves, but first I will chat about how I drafted the pattern, and how it met my expectations. For a fact, I am a loose knitter, so I used a 3.75mm needle when the ball band called for a 4, and even so, my gauge is 19 stitches and -- rows to 4 inches, rather than the -- stitches and -- rows on the ball band. Never mind, I like the way the fabric feels, I think it has integrity, so I am basing my calculations on my figures.
The initial draft is for a classic dropped shoulder, so to accommodate the shaping created by the side panels it will change to a "modified drop shoulder" a sort of squared set in sleeve. If you want more depth and discussion of drafting sleeve types I highly recommend this most excellent series of Knitty magazine articles by Jenna Wilson
I like to use 4 or 5 squares to the inch graph paper, 1 square = 1 inch. I really helps me visualize proportions. First I put dots (sometimes in pencil first) at the desired measurement points.
The connect the dots and  add the script detail. I am quite fond of the "katcha katcha" row counter  from Clover, so I make a row list for decreases, and the stitch count after each step.  I also prefer to work the shaping 1 or 2 stitches in from the edge, with appropriate right and left leaning decreases.
Knitting the sleeves from the top down is a valuable strategy. You can amend the shaping, augment the lower part with a second and or third yarn, and deepen the cuff to achieve the desired length. Sometimes I knit two sleeves at once so they match until the yarn runs out. All in all, a very helpful practice.
To finish off, I dug out some 2.5mm straight needles and really enjoyed knitting where the working point is not much different in diameter to the stem of the needle. These vintage needles remind me of the "stratnoid" needles my dear Aunt Joan used to work with.
Sleeves basted right side together, ready for the steam blocking, under a tea towel of course, because both yarns contain nylon, which goes quite unpleasantly crispy if you touch with the sole of an iron.
Here you see how uneven the body is before pinning out and blocking, but with many of the yarn ends tucked away.
The body pinned out, and sleeve opening measurement double checked.
The sleeve matches the measurement I had planned on paper, without much coaxing.
Ready to block
Sleeves in using a crochet slip stitch, cuffs get the mattress stitch, I love this Youtube video from Pierrot Yarns in Japan. What is the sound of one tapestry needle sewing? Next, Bruce will let me know about if he wishes this chunky pewter clasp from Norway.

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