Bruce's jacket, Collar time

Over the years, many times, people have told me about how their mothers sewed knitted pieces together, without a seam edge showing on the inside. I believe the best way to accomplish this is by using what is known to sewists as the  oversewing or whip stitch.

The other thing I have heard many times is the practice of adding an edge stitch, often slipped every other row, in knit (garter stitch). I use this is sock making myself, making the picking up for the instep clear and easy.

Women at home have a long history of sewing and making for themselves and their families. To me, this means a deep practice in handwork was normal. Richard Rutt has a great deal to say about the history of sock knitting, as well as knitting in general. I believe people constantly made socks, both for the family and for sale. It could be that sock making practices migrated to garment making. Creating a sweater is a special occasion, and extra expense of time and material. Perhaps a new baby or an evening out. You would also want to make a fine fabric if you were layering, as in a twinset, a suit vest or a pullover.

A high level of skill fits perfectly with the flat sweater seam. It would be carefully worked, on a garment made out of typically fine yarn. Patterns from the 30's 40's and 50's were made with fine 3 ply at a gauge of 32 stitches to 4 inches on a 2.75 mm needle. Today's common worsted weight or even DK was the considered a heavy weight for an outdoor garments or quick projects.

James Norbury's book is a  faithful reprint of vintage patterns and easily available at Indigo

Most of the garments are worked in fine yarn. It is interesting that Mr. Norbury is an advocate of the back stitch, rather than the whip stitch. Bernadette Banner, a historical sewist makes the distinction of seams that will be stressed, as in the shoulder area, verses seams that only need to join fabric as in a skirt side seam. Alabama Chanin, a modern hand sewer uses Coats Button and Craft, a super strong thread doubled.

Even if you were a super fast knitter it would take many, many evenings of precious spare time to create a jumper. You also had the responsibility of making for a large family, thus putting the pieces together would be a most satisfying and brief event compared to the time spent knitting.
Oversewing stitch is common in English Paper Piecing Patchwork. The pieces are butted up against each other, joined, and lie flat when stitched together.

 Another factor could be knitters using mostly wool before WW2. A Fibre which can be safely steamed and pressed, making a seam even more flat and smooth.

Back to the collar on Bruce's jacket. Before I permanently stitch it into place, I first baste the strip in place. Right sides together, beginning at the centre back, and working towards the hem. Sewing from the centre towards an edge is a common practice when dressmaking and quilting.

I left half an inch at the bottom to allow for the hem I will be adding to the body later. The picture below is where I stitched it in place, for clarity, with white yarn.

I really stitched using the main bottle green yarn.

The seam is quite flat, and will be even more so after a light and careful steam (because of the the acrylic content) once the jacket is complete.