Sleeves for Bruce's jacket and completion is near

So now it is time to set in the sleeves, but first I will chat about how I drafted the pattern, and how it met my expectations. For a fact, I am a loose knitter, so I used a 3.75mm needle when the ball band called for a 4, and even so, my gauge is 19 stitches and -- rows to 4 inches, rather than the -- stitches and -- rows on the ball band. Never mind, I like the way the fabric feels, I think it has integrity, so I am basing my calculations on my figures.

The initial draft is for a classic dropped shoulder, so to accommodate the shaping created by the side panels it will change to a "modified drop shoulder" a sort of squared set in sleeve. If you want more depth and discussion of drafting sleeve types I highly recommend this most excellent series of Knitty magazine articles by Jenna Wilson

I like to use 4 or 5 squares to the inch graph paper, 1 square = 1 inch. I really helps me visualize proportions. First I put dots (sometimes in pencil first) at the desired measurement points.

The connect the dots and  add the script detail. I am quite fond of the "katcha katcha" row counter  from Clover, so I make a row list for decreases, and the stitch count after each step.  I also prefer to work the shaping 1 or 2 stitches in from the edge, with appropriate right and left leaning decreases.

Knitting the sleeves from the top down is a valuable strategy. You can amend the shaping, augment the lower part with a second and or third yarn, and deepen the cuff to achieve the desired length. Sometimes I knit two sleeves at once so they match until the yarn runs out. All in all, a very helpful practice.

To finish off, I dug out some 2.5mm straight needles and really enjoyed knitting where the working point is not much different in diameter to the stem of the needle. These vintage needles remind me of the "stratnoid" needles my dear Aunt Joan used to work with.

Sleeves basted right side together, ready for the steam blocking, under a tea towel of course, because both yarns contain nylon, which goes quite unpleasantly crispy if you touch with the sole of an iron.

Here you see how uneven the body is before pinning out and blocking, but with many of the yarn ends tucked away.

The body pinned out, and sleeve opening measurement double checked.

The sleeve matches the measurement I had planned on paper, without much coaxing.

Ready to block

Sleeves in using a crochet slip stitch, cuffs get the mattress stitch, I love this Youtube video from Pierrot Yarns in Japan. What is the sound of one tapestry needle sewing? Next, Bruce will let me know about if he wishes this chunky pewter clasp from Norway.

Bruce's jacket, Collar time

Over the years, many times, people have told me about how their mothers sewed knitted pieces together, without a seam edge showing on the inside. I believe the best way to accomplish this is by using what is known to sewists as the  oversewing or whip stitch.

The other thing I have heard many times is the practice of adding an edge stitch, often slipped every other row, in knit (garter stitch). I use this is sock making myself, making the picking up for the instep clear and easy.

Women at home have a long history of sewing and making for themselves and their families. To me, this means a deep practice in handwork was normal. Richard Rutt has a great deal to say about the history of sock knitting, as well as knitting in general. I believe people constantly made socks, both for the family and for sale. It could be that sock making practices migrated to garment making. Creating a sweater is a special occasion, and extra expense of time and material. Perhaps a new baby or an evening out. You would also want to make a fine fabric if you were layering, as in a twinset, a suit vest or a pullover.

A high level of skill fits perfectly with the flat sweater seam. It would be carefully worked, on a garment made out of typically fine yarn. Patterns from the 30's 40's and 50's were made with fine 3 ply at a gauge of 32 stitches to 4 inches on a 2.75 mm needle. Today's common worsted weight or even DK was the considered a heavy weight for an outdoor garments or quick projects.

James Norbury's book is a  faithful reprint of vintage patterns and easily available at Indigo

Most of the garments are worked in fine yarn. It is interesting that Mr. Norbury is an advocate of the back stitch, rather than the whip stitch. Bernadette Banner, a historical sewist makes the distinction of seams that will be stressed, as in the shoulder area, verses seams that only need to join fabric as in a skirt side seam. Alabama Chanin, a modern hand sewer uses Coats Button and Craft, a super strong thread doubled.

Even if you were a super fast knitter it would take many, many evenings of precious spare time to create a jumper. You also had the responsibility of making for a large family, thus putting the pieces together would be a most satisfying and brief event compared to the time spent knitting.
Oversewing stitch is common in English Paper Piecing Patchwork. The pieces are butted up against each other, joined, and lie flat when stitched together.

 Another factor could be knitters using mostly wool before WW2. A Fibre which can be safely steamed and pressed, making a seam even more flat and smooth.

Back to the collar on Bruce's jacket. Before I permanently stitch it into place, I first baste the strip in place. Right sides together, beginning at the centre back, and working towards the hem. Sewing from the centre towards an edge is a common practice when dressmaking and quilting.

I left half an inch at the bottom to allow for the hem I will be adding to the body later. The picture below is where I stitched it in place, for clarity, with white yarn.

I really stitched using the main bottle green yarn.

The seam is quite flat, and will be even more so after a light and careful steam (because of the the acrylic content) once the jacket is complete.