Seams Incredible: The Back Stitch

We discussed seaming Bruce's jacket last night at the knit guild. Sewing up is actually one of the primary reasons we are making the jacket this season. The modular format (or knitted strips) create lots of opportunity for seaming.

Like a reverse New Year countdown, I made top ten list, are we ready?

1. Back stitch
2. Mattress stitch
3. Crochet slip stitch
4. Three needle bind off
5. Whip stitch
6. Grafting
7. Picking up and knitting
8. I cord
9. Sewing Machine
10. Knitting in the round (no sew)

For this post and Bruce's jacket I am using the back stitch for the lengthwise body pieces and a size 18 tapestry needle. This James Norbury's preferred method

It makes a very strong seam, is the devil to unpick and I think it works well when the knitter has the practice of knitting and slipping edge stitches to create a clear selvage.

I like a smaller needle for back stitch because it pierces the edge better and the blunt point avoids splitting the yarn and resulting snagging. The larger needle is a size 13, my preference for mattress stitch.

I am ok with a visible seam on the reverse side, though I understand many knitters prefer a smoother look. I will investigate this possibility later in the new year. I imagine it similar to flatlocking, the kind of seam common on sportswear.

I like the Clover stitch holders when I use the 3 needle bind off as they act like a knitting needle. You could alternatively use double pointed needles.

When the shoulders are complete, the stitch patterns flows smoothly over the shoulder. Notice the extra yarn I leave connected after I have knitted the parts. I leave a 4 times the width of the knitting length on each piece, so I have more options for which yarn I will eventually use to cast off. For me, this is one of the few places I leave a length of yarn from the knitted piece for sewing up. Mostly I prefer to sew up seams with fresh yarn.

My final tip for back stitch is to consider using a thinner yarn for sewing. For example a DK yarn with a chunky. Certainly with a soft unspun yarn like Lopi a yarn with twist and ply is necessary.