Blocking Practices, Part 1

People often ask about the particulars of my blocking practice. Over the years, I have used many different tools and in in the end, return to simple tools and habits. I use a (scratch and dent) ceiling tile from the local lumber store. It is 2 feet by 4 feet.

And I have covered it first, with an vintage wool blanket then a heavy piece of cotton marked in one inch squares. I use safety pins for fastening to make removal for the occasional wash easier.

T pins are the biggest investment for this system. They are sturdy and I dedicate them to only this process. My sewing pins are like my dressmaker scissors, absolutely only for sewing. The ceiling tile is made of pressed wood fibres and like any paper dulls sharp edges, even after a single use, (ask me how I know this).

The other tool is some nondescript smooth yarn to baste the garment pieces together. I am using off white Cascade acrylic DK yarn. It is strong and won't transfer any colour during the steaming.

I baste the pieces, right sides together, all around, on the very edge using a (blunt) tapestry needle. This practices makes sure the parts will match in size after the steaming. Also the way knitting likes to curl is controlled by basting them right sides together. After the first pin out and steam you can re-steam the very edges by removing the pins and before you remove the basting yarn. Well behaved, tidy flat edges make sewing up a greater pleasure.

The marked squares on the outer cloth to facilitate measuring and keeping the grain of the knitting correct. I do a dimensional double check with a measuring tape. Over time and washings the cotton cloth has shrunk the marked squares to slightly smaller than a true inch.

I place marker pins to the correct measurement and then fit the knitted piece into shape. Pinning the corners, then the middle of the seam, then about 3 inches apart. This cardigan is a pretty sturdy knit, if I were blocking something more supple, like a lace shawl I would pin about every inch.

I also recommend leaning the pins at an outward angle so the iron can get to the very edges

After steaming, you can lean the board up against a wall until it is dry thus freeing up the precious workspace for more activity.

We also carry puzzle blocking mats, great for crescent shaped shawls for example. In the next post I will talk more about how I make use of the iron. Thanks for joining me!